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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 21, 2006 22:27:45 GMT -5
I figured instead of taking up space in other threads, I would go ahead and start a separate thread to complain about cars in. After just having a bunch of headaches with mine, now I get another one. Now it starts and everything works, except it doesn't want to stay running I also have a check engine light that I didn't have before. It's hard starting and I actually have to give it a little gas to get it to start. Then when it starts, it idles way too high, and won't kick down until it warms up. If you try to put it in gear while it is like that it dies instantly. Once it kicks down, it will idle, but if you give it gas, it wants to die. If you are real good at feathering the gas pedal, you can get it to rev higher (when it gets to that point, the check engine light goes out) When it is idling like that, you can also put it in gear, and it will stay running if you are good at tapping the gas pedal. Enough to keep it from dying, but not too much, or it will stall. After a little bit longer, it doesn't want to idle at all. You really have to work the pedal to keep it going. Once I get daylight again, I will have to get under the hood and see if something got disconected when I was working on it.
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 22, 2006 4:12:25 GMT -5
Ya know Trevor, I was going to suggest we start a thread where we could complain or commiserate about these dang fool contraptions and ya beat me to it! we must be psychic, or psycho, or something. I say psycho, because if you were sane at one time working on cars will change that. HAHAHAHAHAHA.( he laughed manically)
As to your woes, I would be looking for another bad ground. Maybe throttle position sensor, or some fuel delivery component. But don't rule out ignition either. Check those four small wires that hooked up to that obstinate stud, maybe something is loose there, or you may have knocked some thing loose while you were making repairs. Since none of this was happening before you replaced your battery cable. Check for a loose vacuum line also, as they are easy to dislodge, or even break, if they are the hard plastic kind.
Along with Master Turks suggestion (see "How much Snow" page 13) while it is a VERY good one, and will work well if your injectors are simply "dirty" DON'T FORGET to change your fuel filter once in awhile! They are usually located under the car so it is OUT OF SIGHT, OUT OF MIND! I have worked on 10 or 15 year old cars with the fuel filter it left the factory with still on the car! So check it once in awhile folks! Replacing a 10 dollar filter might save you a hundred dollar tow. HANK.
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 22, 2006 4:51:01 GMT -5
Computers will drive you just a crazy as these damn cars will! I had typed this big long reply and when I hit spell check it told me this page cannot be displayed and I lost the whole damn thing! @#**?%#@& WORTHLESS PIECE OF MONKEY CRAP!! So! since i had to redo everything I thought I would break it into smaller pieces and try and get some of it posted (see reply #1)
I just finished up a repair on a friends 1992 Ford F-150 yesterday. He was driving down the road and the truck just "died" right in front of my house. Well I went out and helped push him off the road so as not to get hit. Well, one thing lead to another and before ya know it we are tearing the engine apart to see what was the matter. Turns out the gear on his distributor that meshes with the camshaft broke clean off and fell into the oil pan. Don't that beat all! After talking to the guys at the local Ford dealer I come to find out, "ya, that happens all the time with the 4.9 liter" Gee, if Ford has a better idea, I guess that wasn't it. SO! to make a long story short, one new distributor later and a bit of screwing around getting the timing set right and he was back up and running again, happy as a pig in shi*! So, that was my good deed for the day. And made a little beer money ta boot.
Today I have to repair a broken water line in the "Lunch Room" garage. That butt freezing cold we had the other day caused a line to burst. Since I was kinda busy with that F-150 I just shut off the valve till I could get to it. If it tain't one thing, it's another. HANK.
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 22, 2006 9:16:22 GMT -5
Man, never heard of that happening before. You'd think Ford would issue a recal and replace something like that.
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 22, 2006 9:46:25 GMT -5
Well Trevor, the problem may not be prevalent any more. Remember, this was a 1992. So maybe they did recall it back then. Can't tell ya, don't know. I don't even know for sure if Ford is still using that engine in 2006 models. It might have been one of those things like Chevy had with the bad camshafts in the 305 motor in the late 70. Not EVERY one went bad, but a lot of 'em sure did. Maybe the problem only develops after many years and miles have gone by, so it is YEARS out of warranty. So sorry, too bad. Not our problem. HANK.
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 22, 2006 9:49:00 GMT -5
Just checked on the automotive board I also frequent when I have problems. They say it might be the crankshaft position sensor needs to be reprogrammed.
Does that actually sound like a possibility?
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 22, 2006 14:03:30 GMT -5
Well, I got my plumbing problem fixed!(fingers crossed) more on that later. Now, as to your Buick. Turns out I do have a manual, but it doesn't say much about the crankshaft position sensor: I quote. The CPS is bolted to the rear of the engine block and sends a signal to the ECM to tell it both engine RPM and crankshaft position. Thats it. But I go to my emissions control manual and it tells me a little more: The CPS provides an ignition timing signal to the computer based on the position of the crankshaft. Most CPS problems can be traced to a fault in the wiring harness or connectors. These problems can cause a loss of the timing signal and the engine will not start. (yours does, it just runs like crap.) Check your Mass Air Flow Sensor: This is located on your air filter inlet. (you removed that you said to gain access) This tells the ECM how much air is entering the engine and fuel mixture is directly controlled according to the conditions. So if the computer does not know how much air it is getting, WELL! it's not real sure what to do with the fuel. HMMMM!
Hope this helps. I'll keep digging and if I find anything I think might be of use I will pass it along. If you solve the problem, let me know what you found. HANK.
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 22, 2006 14:26:37 GMT -5
The pipe broke in that back corner by the furnace and the oil tank. So trying to get in there, even with my magical "Little Giant" ladder was a pain in the butt cuz I had to reach over the furnace. And of course the pipes had been painted and there was a ton of dust on them so that had to be cleaned down to bright shiny copper in order to solder it. Plus I think the entire Pacific Ocean resided in that pipe cuz I had to get all the water out in order to be able to solder it and that seemed to take FOREVER! But to paraphrase Larry, The cable Guy; we "Got 'er done" with a few expletives deleted along the way. It's nice to have water back in the garage once again. HANK.
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 22, 2006 14:38:59 GMT -5
Man, I hate soldiering water pipes. One of the worst jobs to do that doesn't involve a car.
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 23, 2006 10:22:46 GMT -5
Well, by doing a manual crank position relearn, the car will now start, and idle. But that's about it. Go to give it gas, and it wants to die I've been bouncing all over the net educating myself about fuel injection, as I know squat about it. I took the cover off the carb (or throttle body, or whatever it's called) Am I supposed to be seeing gas on the plate in the bottom of that?
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 23, 2006 14:57:45 GMT -5
Ok, I've got it narrowed down now. Pulled codes 22 and 34 off the car. (low TPS and low MAF) Pulled the connector of the TPS and checked it for reference voltage, and I am only getting .122 volts DC? I should be getting .5 volts Any idea what would cause this?
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 23, 2006 16:04:47 GMT -5
Trevor...I'm going to break this down into SMALL replys as I just tried to send you some info and this damn piece of junk told me "this page cannot be displayed" I'm going to get out my sword and beat the living crap out of it, as I lost a good 20-25 minutes of work.
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 23, 2006 16:10:05 GMT -5
Code 34. Mass air flow sensor: Low air flow indicated. Check terminal C on the MAF sensor. It should be about 0.5 volts at idle and 4.7 volts at wide open throttle. trace the wire from terminal C and look for a short to ground.
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Post by Sir Trevor on Feb 23, 2006 16:17:36 GMT -5
I'm not worried about the MAF code yet. That is probably caused by the TPS code. Since it isn't reporting the throttle correctly that would screw up the MAF readings. Right now, I'm trying to figure out where the damn computer is under my dash, so I can check connections there. If I am not getting enough juice out of the computer, then there is something screwed with that
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Post by bunbun / Hank on Feb 23, 2006 16:18:20 GMT -5
A code 34 will set if the sensor fails at a low frequency or power is lost to the sensor. A quick check of the sensor can be made by tapping the flat portion of the sensor body with a screwdriver handle as the engine is running. If the engine stumbles or dies, the sensor is faulty.
My opinion: Check that very closely, as you had the air cleaner off to make the cable repair. Could you have maybe BENT one of the tiny pins in the connector?
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